So far, New York started fashion month for us with beloved sportswear brands and London was calling with the premier of McQ. Now Milan Fashion Week is enchanting us with catwalk shows of Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Prada and Versace — all powerful female collections.
According to Style.com, Gucci designer Frida Giannini created a romantic collection. Frida says, “ ... not cute-romantic; it has a confidence." Indeed it does, as the models donned velvet pieces that were crafted in masculine styles often seen. The collection is not like the brands usual feminine, flowy silhouettes that include pops of color. In fact, the clothes seemed to go in the other direction.
It would be interesting to see what die-hard Gucci fans are saying because this collection looks quite different. The past collection usually featured slim-fitting trousers, while these are baggy — like really baggy.
During the show, the “Scarface” soundtrack was playing. You can probably imagine where Giannini was going with the long coats, capes and leather jackets thrown over the dark velvet and sheer blouses.
Miuccia Prada, like Giannini, also created a very strong collection. According to Tim Blanks from Style.com, the embroidered looks featured layered workings of sequins and Plexi, which evoked importance. According to Prada, importance should come first and then power. Considering Prada has a PhD in political science and was champion for women’s rights in Milan during the ’70s, all of this doesn’t come as a surprise.
The designs themselves are minimal, like the coats and the two-piece suits that feature a straight-legged trouser and long suit jacket, but the embroideries are the highlight of the collection.
Donatella Versace did what she though she’d never do: revisit her brother Gianni Versace’s collection that was presented back in 1997, months before he was gunned down in his Miami home.
The collection featured Goth elements from Gianni’s last collection: crucifixes and monochrome. This time, it was mixed with Donatella’s construction aesthetic of dresses built out at the hips and studded leather. Oh, yeah.
The models' looks also took a cue from Rooney Mara’s recent runway looks: blunt bangs. What was the end effect? A powerful collection that is futuristic and old at the same time.
Tomas Maier may be the lone male from the bunch, but his take on the powerful woman was just as visceral as the other three. His models were sent out in dark, impeccable, tailored, long skirts and high-collared tops in black, dark blue and red. The looks were finished off with hair slicked to the side and burgundy lipstick.
As the collection went along, more drama, like feathered, shouldered dresses with leather gloves, came down the runway, and soon after, the pops of color came in. The coherence of the looks was impeccably down. You can picture exactly the kind of woman who would wear these looks.
Milan Fashion Week has been interesting with these designers’ take on the “powerful” woman concept. It could have a connection with recent Best Actress nominations Meryl Streep, Glenn Close and Rooney Mara, who all played very strong female characters.
Call it a feminist’s dream, but it’s great to see these designers craft masculine pieces for women.
All photos from New York Magazine
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